Linen — wet spun and dry spun
Linen is our flagship fibre and the bulk of what passes through our looms. Two distinct spinning routes give us two distinct quality grades:
Long-line wet-spun linen
The premium grade. Long flax fibres, combed and prepared into a roving, are spun while passing through a hot water bath. The water softens the natural pectin in the fibre and lets the individual flax filaments slip and align — producing a fine, smooth, lustrous yarn with low hairiness and good evenness. Wet-spun linen is what you reach for when you need fine apparel shirting, dress fabric, suiting, lace, or premium home textiles where the hand and lustre matter.
We work with wet-spun linen across the full count range — from medium counts for general apparel fabric through to fine 50-, 60-LEA counts for the highest-end shirting and dress goods.
Tow dry-spun linen
The textured grade. Shorter flax fibres (the "tow" remaining after combing) are spun without water, producing a yarn with more visible texture and a more rustic hand. Dry-spun linen is used for upholstery, drapery, heavier home textiles, and constructions where the textile character of linen is the point — not its smoothness.
Coarser counts in the 10–25 LEA range are typical here. The yarn is less even than wet-spun but more interesting visually, and it weaves well into dobby and jacquard constructions where the texture adds depth to the figure.
Counts handled (LEA / Nm)
Linen yarn is measured in LEA — a traditional count where one LEA represents the length of a 300-yard hank per pound of yarn. Higher LEA means finer yarn. We work across the full commercial range:
| Count | Metric Nm | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 10 LEA | 6.06 Nm | Heavy upholstery, drapery, industrial |
| 14 LEA | 8.48 Nm | Home textiles, heavy furnishing |
| 16 LEA | 9.69 Nm | Home textiles, jacquard furnishing |
| 25 LEA | 15.15 Nm | General-purpose linen fabric |
| 33 LEA | 20.00 Nm | Apparel linen, lightweight home textiles |
| 40 LEA | 24.24 Nm | Most common apparel count |
| 44 LEA | 26.66 Nm | Fine apparel |
| 60 LEA | 36.36 Nm | Premium fine-count linen |
Other natural fibres
Hemp
Bast-fibre cousin of linen with a similar spinning profile but a coarser, more textured hand. Hemp is naturally strong, antimicrobial, and a good rotation crop with low input requirements. We work with hemp on its own (typically in the medium-coarse count range) and as a blending partner with linen, cotton, and viscose for buyers wanting hemp's character on a softer base.
Cotton
Used both on its own (combed and carded ring-spun cotton) and as a blending partner for linen. Linen-cotton blends in 55/45 and 70/30 ratios are one of our largest categories — softens the hand of linen, improves wrinkle recovery, and reduces the price point compared to 100% linen without losing the cool drape that defines the category.
Viscose, lyocell, micro modal
The cellulosic blending family. Viscose adds fluid drape and rich colour uptake. Lyocell (Tencel) is the high-end sustainable cellulosic — strong, silky, and forestry-certified. Micro modal brings exceptional softness. All three are commonly blended with linen for dress fabric and luxury home textile constructions.
Silk
Mulberry silk is the most common silk we work with, primarily as a blending partner for linen in linen-silk constructions including jacquards. Silk brings sheen, drape, and a luxury price point; linen brings structure and the natural-fibre story.
Polyester (including recycled)
Polyester is occasionally blended with linen-cotton for performance constructions. Recycled polyester is available under our GRS scope for buyers needing recycled-content claims on a blended fabric.
Grades
Within any count, linen yarn is further classified by the length and integrity of the flax staple. We accept all four standard grades and select on order based on the customer's construction and end use:
- EXL (Extra Long) — premium long-staple, smoothest hand, lowest hairiness, used for high-end apparel and fine home textiles
- DLX (Deluxe) — high quality long-staple, used for quality apparel and home textiles
- Super — upper mid-grade, standard for most commercial linen apparel
- Normal — standard commercial grade, used where cost is the primary driver
Colour states
- RB (Raw Bleached) — white, suitable for printing or pale-coloured finishing
- RL (Raw Natural) — unbleached, retaining the natural warm colour of the flax
- N (Natural) — undyed, close to raw flax colour
- Dyed — yarn-dyed under our certification scope to any shade per the customer specification
Traceability
Every yarn lot we receive is logged with a goods receipt note and assigned a lot number that travels with the yarn through every subsequent stage — warping, weaving, finishing, dispatch. For GOTS, OCS, and GRS-certified orders, the chain-of-custody documentation links the finished fabric Transaction Certificate back to the original yarn lot via the Control Union scope.